Aubrey Beardsley

Artsy Craftsy

Wabi-sabi 侘寂

A comprehensive Japanese aesthetic comprised of two concepts, wabi (rustic simplicity) and sabi (beauty that comes with age). When applied to man-made objects, wabi also refers to the imperfections arising from the process of construction, which are believed to add uniqueness and an understated elegance. Likewise, sabi can be found in the patina and wear of aged objects. Wabi-sabi nurtures beauty with authenticity by recognizing that imperfection, impermanence and incompletion are facts of life.

The influence of the wabi-sabi philosophy can be glimpsed in many areas of Japanese craft, culture and the arts. Let me focus on something I'm familiar with- fashion. I shall use the labels Commes des Garcons, designed by Rei Kawakubo, and Aski Kataski (a Japanese brand, despite its Greek name) as examples. Characteristic features of Kawakubo's work include assymetry, misplaced garment details and an 'unfinished' look, as if to emphasize the imperfect quality of the garments. I find this perspective highly refreshing and consistent with the wabi aesthetic.

Aski Kataski clothes illustrate wabi in a slightly different manner. Made with raw-looking natural fabrics, they possess that rustic simplicity characteristic of wabi and, in addition, often come in shades suggestive of the patina that age brings (the sabi aspect). It is no surprise that deliberate rips, frayed hems and other forms of wear-and-tear usually induced by the passage of time are present in the garments as well. Each garment is unique and hence a work of art in itself.

In short, instead of striving to achieve a smooth polish like their Western counterparts, many Japanese designers embrace the anomalies of construction and the ageing process as design concepts, transforming that which is undesirable into something beautiful. I think the wabi-sabi philosophy deserves contemplation, as it helps us to appreciate the uniqueness of objects and to find beauty in imperfection. On a higher level, it may spur us to look beyond the material dimension of this world, for there is a Zen-like quality to wabi-sabi. What I find most illuminating is its emphasis on quietness. It reinforces the fact that things don't have to be loud to be worthy of attention, and that it is often the most simple and common things that escape our appreciation.

PS. 錆, the word for rust, is also pronounced as sabi. How apt, considering that sabi is associated with the natural process of aging.

Japanese aesthetics

Picture source: Atlantis Home (top), TFS (bottom)

I've been reading about Japanese aesthetics out of interest. The values and concepts are deeply fascinating, and I can certainly see their influence on Japanese culture, art and fashion. Here are some prominent ones to begin with:

Yugen- 'barely glimpsed rich and mysterious beauty'

Furyu- 'refined manners, as reflected in things regarded as tasteful and elegant'

Sabi- 'a slightly bleak quality suggesting age, deterioration, and the passage of time'

Wabi- 'a cultivated aesthetic that finds beauty in simplicity and impoverished rusticity'

Mono no aware- 'a slightly sweet and sad quality as appreciated by an observer sensitive to the ephemeral nature of existence'; 'the pity of things'

--- 'Miyabi' on TFS

These concepts might seem foreign initially, but I think they resonate with all of us regardless of the culture or society we come from. I'll be going into detail on select ones in coming posts.

I studied Japanese for six years as a third language, hence all things Japanese occupy a special place in my heart. Studying another language from scratch was a very different experience from learning my mother tongue, which I did unconsciously from young. I think it allowed me to examine the nuances in meaning and structure of the language and to draw connections to Japanese culture and history. This was partly because of my matured perspective and developed analytical skills, and also because it was just so new to me. It's easier to digest something when it's fresh. Besides, my thirst for knowledge spurred me to seek any information that could help me in my understanding.

My sis and I desperately want to visit Japan after our college graduation, to immerse ourselves in the culture that so fascinates us and hone our (by then) rusty language skills. The last time when we were in Tokyo, we made a silent pact to return. Have you ever experienced what it's like in a foreign country, when a scene overwhelms you and you feel the strong pull of the place? I felt that in Japan on several occasions. Someday I must fulfill our pact.

Infinity

"If you accept that the universe is infinite, then that means there's an infinite amount of chances for things to happen... if there's an infinite amount of chances for something to happen, then eventually it will happen- no matter how small the likelihood.'
...

'Interesting,' she whispered. 'In these planets, everything that can happen will happen.'
...

I leaned over and kissed Francoise. She pulled away, or laughed, or shook her head, or closed her eyes and kissed me back.
...

Light-years above our bin-liner beds and the steady rush of the surf, all these things happened.

--- Extract from Alex Garland's The Beach

'Goth'- pen and watercolour

I like the stylized drips and spidery lines on this one. It has a gothic look with a feminine touch.

I was checking out the trailer of the upcoming Sherlock Holmes movie (I'm a closet fan of the stories). Don't think I know anyone in my circle who reads Sherlock Holmes though, except for my sis who loves it as much as I do. I must say, the movie seems to have a very different feel from the stories, though the costumes and sets are quite convincing. Much of it has to do with the casting, which I find surprising. Robert Downey Jr. as Holmes and Jude Law as Doctor Watson? Never would have thought of that. I'm unfamiliar with the former's acting, but my friend assures me that he's a brilliant actor. He better be, because I wouldn't want to lose Holmes' distinctive character and idiosyncracies to the adaptation process.

On another note, why is Irene Adler (played by Rachel McAdams) dressed like some kind of high-class hooker in the trailer? I envisioned her as a beautiful, elegant lady and not a seductive vixen. Hmm. I know Holmes is fascinated by her in one of the stories, but I really don't think he'd go so far as to have a romantic interest in her, considering his suspicion of and general aversion to women.

Seems like the movie plot isn't from the series, as I see some unfamiliar character names like 'Lord Blackwood' who I assume is the main villain. I guess the purpose of the reinvention is to appeal to a wider audience; to make it more 'Hollywood', if you will. A straightforward adaptation might be too staid, given the era in which the series was written. I'm sufficiently intrigued by the trailer to give it a go. At least I'd have something to look forward to at the end of this year. Good to know that the stories are still alive in some people's memories, and not just collecting dust on a shelf somewhere. A movie adaptation might very well generate interest in the series among the younger generation.

Prada F/W 09 Lookbook

Prada website

I wasn't impressed by the Prada F/W 09 collection, but its recently-released lookbook has inspired me to view it in a different light. Existing runway and backstage images have been altered to produce a dark, brooding mood, an elemental theme and a slight surrealism that I love. It's a perfect synthesis of art, graphic design and fashion. The use of visual effects, including adding or subtracting elements, casting shadows and eliminating the distinction between the foreground and background, is rich in variety but not overdone. Some have that wry touch which reminds me of Surrealist painter Magritte's works. It's astounding how clothes can look so different when placed in another context.

Letter from a Disgruntled HP Fan

Dear David Yates,

I'm not happy. I'm not happy at all. After making me and other Harry Potter fans wait an additional six months, this is what you give us? Plot changes without reason and the abbreviation of the climaxes of the book, the cave scene and the battle at Hogwarts. If you can still call it a battle, that is, seeing as all they did was kill Dumbledore (oops, spoiler), set Hagrid's house on fire and kick glass goblets off the long tables in the Great Hall (courtesy of Bellatrix). I felt so let-down and the word anti-climax is definitely appropriate here.

Ok, I accept that it's an adaptation which means rewrites are inevitable, and that the story has to be distilled to fit within a reasonable movie timeframe. Still, changes are only reasonable, only logical, if they better support the development of the movie compared to the original. What point did the Burrow attack serve? Everything just went by too quickly for any sort of impact to sink in. What point did overhauling the entire Harry-Ginny relationship serve, for that matter? It doesn't seem to add value to the plot. It was so ironic how their book kiss, which occured after a successful Quidditch match, became Ron and Lavender's kiss. It was as if the scriptwriter went, "Ho hum, I'm tired of everything so I think I'll just switch up their parts."

Remove that irritating waitress scene and the attack on the Burrow and there'll already be additional minutes of screen time which can be used to supplement other parts. Stop changing lines senselessly and giving one character's lines to another (Ron was practically mute in the last scene). Do that and I'd be a happier fan. Seriously, the next movie's got to be better, though I don't have high hopes.

All this sounds very pessimistic, but that's just me judging it critically. It's good if you counsider it in terms of entertainment value, and the acting was great, especially Rupert Grint's performance. Despite its flaws, it's still one of the better HP movies to me (the first two were too Christmas-y for my liking, if you know what I mean). Just that I'm not so rabid a fan as to rush out to catch it again.